CrestedGeckoCareSheet3

Level of Care, Handling, & Temperament:
Easy, beginner level. Crested geckos can be very easy to handle once they are used to
it and rarely bite. They have a prehensile tail (like opossums). Do not frighten them or
grab them by the tail. They may drop it (a defense mechanism) and it will not grow back.
Crested geckos are nocturnal, so during the day they are less active. With handling
experience they are very docile. Handle them gently, supporting their whole body in one
hand. Often I put my thumb gently on their back. They can leap long distances without
warning and could get injured if they fell. It is best to put one hand in front of the other
and let them go from one to the next. Breeding crested geckos make little noises, usually
at night, but you have to listen carefully for these. They are sweet and comical pets, and
thrive in captivity. They come in many colors and patterns. Males develop two large
bulges at the base of their tail at around 6 months of age whereas females do not.

Enclosure:
A 20 gallon tall enclosure (glass or screen) works well for an adult crested gecko.
Geckos can be kept in pairs if they are both female or a male and a female, or you can
keep a trio of one male and two females (in a 29 gallon aquarium). I don't recommend
keeping males together since they may fight and injure each other, or one may dominate
the resources in the cage. Once you get your enclosure, put in some pieces of
disinfected wood or climbing vines for your gecko. Also provide some fake plants
(I prefer ivy) for hiding. These are cheapest at craft and hobby stores where people use
them for floral arrangements. You can find suction cups with small hooks to attach fake
ivy to the sides of the tank at hardware stores (put tape over the end of the hook so your
gecko doesn’t get scratched by accident). I use paper towel for substrate. It is easy to
clean, doesn't attract parasites, and crested geckos like to hide in it during the day (I fold
sheets in halves or thirds). For a more naturalistic enclosure you can use a mixture of
potting soil (with no fertilizer) and sand for substrate. Provide a shallow water dish. The
cage will need to be misted with a spray bottle at least once daily to help your gecko
shed and provide the proper humidity. Mist younger geckos twice daily as they shed
more often, and can get shed stuck on their toes or tail tips. Since crested geckos are
nocturnal they do not need UV light or a heat source as long as room temperature is
between 72 and 78 degrees. You can provide a low wattage nocturnal viewing light at
night if temperatures drop below 70 degrees. These can be purchased at pet stores and
are red light bulbs (wavelengths that won’t disturb the geckos at night). Make sure to
keep a thermometer in the cage if you use any light source so that it doesn’t get too hot.
Crested geckos cannot tolerate temperatures above 85 degrees for long periods of
time. Since your gecko will climb on the walls of the enclosure, sometimes you will need
to clean the walls if they get messy. I mist the aquarium down with a spray bottle full of
water then wipe the sides clean with paper towel. Harder to remove messes can be
easily detached from the glass using a razor blade. Remove your gecko from the
enclosure if you are to do this of course.

Feeding:
Feed your gecko in the evening so food is fresh while he or she is awake. Feed fruit
baby food (apricot, peach, banana, mango) in very small amounts- about the size of a
quarter per animal. Food-processed fresh fruit can be used if you prefer. I mix in
chicken or turkey baby food with the fruit baby food once a week (one part meat to three
parts fruit). Peach or strawberry low-fat yogurt can also be alternated with the baby food
once a week. Crested geckos eat very small amounts and you should notice little
imprints in the food the next day. Remove any leftover food the next day or it will spoil.
Also, feed 3-5 size appropriate crickets (not larger than width of the gecko’s head) a
couple of days a week. Make sure the baby food and crickets are dusted with vitamins
three days a week. I use equal parts of Rep-Cal calcium supplement and Herpivite.
These can be purchased at most pet stores or online and are necessary supplements for
your gecko to stay healthy and strong. I feed at least 5 days a week for adult geckos
and feed younger geckos smaller food items at least 6 days a week.