GargoyleGeckoCaresheet

Care, Handling, & Temperament:
Easy, beginner level. Gargoyle geckos can be very easy to handle once they are used to it
and rarely bite. Do not frighten them or grab them by the tail, or they may drop it
(a defense mechanism). If they do, it will regenerate with time. Gargoyle geckos are
nocturnal, so during the day they are less active. With handling experience they are very
docile. Handle them gently, supporting their whole body in one hand. Often I put my thumb
gently on their back. They can leap without warning and could get injured if they fell. It is
best to put one hand in front of the other and let them go from one to the next. Gargoyle
geckos thrive in captivity. They come in several colors and patterns (patternless,
reticulated, marble, and striped). Males develop two large bulges at the base of their
tail whereas females do not.

Enclosure:
Gargoyle geckos have very similar care requirements as crested geckos. But unlike
crested geckos, they spend much more time on the ground so I keep them in long
(as opposed to tall) aquariums. At least a 20 gallon long enclosure works for one adult
gargoyle gecko. Gargoyle geckos are more prone to fight in groups and lose their tails so
I keep them by themselves unless they are in a breeding group of one male to one or two
females (use a 29 gallon long enclosure or larger for a pair or group). Once you get your
enclosure, put in some pieces of disinfected wood for the geckos to climb on. Also
provide some fake plants or vines in the cage. These are cheapest at craft and hobby
stores where people buy them for floral arrangements. You can find suction cups with
small hooks to attach fake ivy to the tank at a hardware store (put tape over the end of the
hook so your gecko doesn’t get scratched by accident). I use paper towel for substrate.
It is easy to clean and doesn't attract parasites. For a more naturalistic enclosure you can
use a mixture of potting soil (with no fertilizer) and sand for substrate. Provide a shallow
water dish. The cage will need to be misted with a spray bottle at least once daily to help
your gecko shed and provide proper humidity. Mist younger geckos twice daily as they are
growing and shed more often. Since gargoyle geckos are nocturnal they do not need UV
light or a heat source as long as room temperature is between 72° and 78°. You can
provide a low wattage nocturnal viewing light at night if temperatures drop below 70°.
These can be purchased at pet stores and are red light bulbs (wavelengths that won’t
disturb the geckos at night). Make sure to keep a thermometer in the cage if you use any
light source so that it doesn't’t get too hot. Gargoyle geckos cannot tolerate temperatures
above 85° for long periods of time. Since your gecko will climb on the walls of the
enclosure, sometimes you will need to clean the walls if they get messy. I mist the
aquarium down with a spray bottle full of water then wipe the sides clean with paper towel.
Harder to remove messes can be easily detached from the glass using a razor blade.
Remove your gecko from the enclosure if you are to do this of course.

Feeding:
Feed your gecko in the evening so food is fresh while he or she is awake. Feed fruit baby
food (apricot, peach, banana, mango) in very small amounts- about the size of a quarter
per animal. Food-processed fresh fruit can be used if you prefer. I also mix in chicken or
turkey baby food with the fruit baby food once a week (one part meat to three parts fruit).
Peach or strawberry low-fat yogurt can also be alternated with the baby food once a week.
Gargoyle geckos eat very small amounts and you should notice little imprints in the food
the next day. Remove any leftover food the next day or it will spoil. Also, feed 2-4 size
appropriate crickets (not larger than width of the gecko’s head) a couple of days a week.
Make sure baby food and crickets are dusted with vitamins three days a week. I use
Rep-Cal calcium supplement and Herpivite. These can be purchased at most pet stores or
online and are necessary supplements for your gecko to stay healthy and strong. I feed
at least 5 days a week for adult geckos and feed younger geckos smaller food items
at least 6 days a week.